17 – 22/3/16
Sounds of the swell at night.
Starscape. The Emu in the Sky.
Moonrise through the Norfolk Island pines
Cameraderie out in the take-off zone.
I surf with Kim. We’d brought numerous college groups together up the 10 hour drive from Canberra to learn to surf close by near Crescent Head for the time of their lives, warm water, good company, good surf, good times. Past. Now we are rich in time like millionaires in hours and days.
Catch a wave, ride it in, walk back out, hang out in the take-off zone.
I take off and play the green face of the first bigger section, slow cutback off the translucent wall then cruise up to the lip and back down, ride the nose and hold speed through the rebuild then crouch along the beach break and ride the power as it breaks in a rolling barrel behind and I accelerate right across the close out to dive over the back of the wave just short of the sand. 200m rides. Walk back out along the beach to the rocks. Jump in and paddle 20m. 3 in a row all better than the last. I’ve dreamed of this.
Ocean swim training. Cath and I do 30 minute sessions of laps with and against the current in front of the sandbar.
We cycle along the beach. And to the lotus flower lily billabong 2km south.
Run along the beach.
Drink more tea. Chat. Laugh. Read. Then surf again.
Paddle the waveski.
Like an exercise health body and soul retreat.
Asleep in bed by 8.30pm each night.
We watch, contemplate, observe the everchanging scene and the ocean life from the viewing seat at the front of the pavilion. Pelicans. Surfers. Kids learning how to ride a board. People watching. Chatting with passers by. Seaguls and crested terns. Big groups of dolphins. Goannas. Echidna.